Construction – Raj Mirpuri Bespoke Clothiers
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Construction


Fabric Pattern Matching


Matching the fabric pattern at the critical seams is the hallmark of a well made shirt. With the use of needle tables, where each shirt component is aligned individually and placed one by one on top of the other, we ensure that stripes, checks and weaves are matched perfectly at all the seams of our shirt.

Stitching

As our shirts have a yarn count of 120 or above, it is necessary to have a very high density of stitches per inch. We currently ensure that our shirts have a minimum of 21 stitches per inch which adds to the durability of our shirts.

Depending on the design of our shirt, we would use either have single needle stitching or two needle stitching at the seams. Our formal shirts use single needle stitching as it creates a cleaner look and dressier appearance. Our Oxfords (not our Pinpoint Oxfords which are more formal) use twin-needle stitching to create the more casual and relaxed look.

Interlining

Relevant for our cuffs and collars, interlining is an extra piece of material sewn in between that gives our collars and cuffs extra structure and a stiffer feel that looks crisp and holds up well to repeated washings and ironing. As with fabrics, collar and cuff interlinings are available in different weights, which result in different stiffness or softness. For our bespoke range, you can select the weight of your collar and cuff interlining.

Stitched Collars & Cuffs

Stitched collars & cuffs take a lot more care and attention to make as they rely on the skill of the machinist to correctly handle the separate layers and judge just the right amount of tension when sewing to make the collar and cuff sit correctly when worn. Fabric performance needs to be controlled as well so that there is no excess fabric once the shirt is washed. All our collars and cuffs are stitched because they are more comfortable to wear; they are soft and not scratchy; they are not as flat looking and have more life; and they are well tailored.

The alternative is to have fused collars and cuffs. They are faster and easier to make and generally cheaper too. A fused collar or cuff is one where the lining is stuck to the fabric with a membrane of glue and then heat sealed to stick the layers together. This can lead to bubbling in some cases, especially after washing as the detergents can break down the glue. 

 

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