While the yarn count and whether the fabric is 1 ply or 2 ply is important, it is how the cotton is woven that will determine how your shirt will look and feel. The quality of the shirt may remain the same, but the weave is what makes each shirt special. As part of our Bespoke range we offer a number of weaves; but as a ReadyBespoke Shirt, we currently only offer Poplin, End-on-End and Oxford.
This is the classic dress shirt fabric. It is created using a simple weave pattern and with a yarn count of 120 or above, the result is a smooth and luxurious shirt. These shirts are generally lightweight and have a crisp appearance - as such they are recommended for formal occasions.
Oxford fabrics are inherently more casual because of the way the fabric is woven. Multiple yards pass over one-another and are times cross with a white fabric to give the shirt its unique checkerboard appearance. The classic Oxford shirt is white and with a button-down collar and button cuffs with a loop at the back.
There are finer “grades” of the Oxford weave, being Pinpoint Oxford and Royal Oxford.
End on End
End-on-end, or fil à fil, is made by weaving two yarns together - typically alternating dyed and white ends. The idea is to give the shirt fabric a richer texture that you would only notice up close.
Cotton Twill is easily reconigsable because of its diagonal lines, texture and shine. As it is an extremely tight weave, it is softer than poplin and will drape more easily. A twill fabric will not provide the same “crisp” look that a freshly pressed poplin shire can, but it is relatively easy to iron and more resistant to wrinkles.
The Herringbone weave is a distinctive V-shaped weaving patter that comes under the family of twill shirtings. The weave gets is name as it looks similar to the skeleton of a herring fish.