Bespoke Tailoring - What It Means, What Are The Differences?

The definition of bespoke tailoring used to be very clear. However, as owning a bespoke tailored suit is something that most men aspired too, brands and companies introduced different terms that gave the impression of a bespoke tailored suit, but in reality are not anywhere near it. 

At Raj Mirpuri we focus solely on providing Bespoke Tailored Garments and below we highlight the hallmarks of what makes something bespoke tailored for you. 

Full Canvass Jacket

The hallmark of a bespoke tailored suit, a full-canvassed suit jacket is one that is constructed with canvas fabric spanning the entire inside front panels and lapels of the jacket. As a middle structural layer, the canvas is hand stitched to the fabric rather loosely (i.e., a “floating” canvas), so the garment can move with you. What results is a suit that drapes much more naturally, conforms to the body and looks much better, especially when you’re making moves. Full-canvassed jackets are the most labor and time intensive, require a higher level of skill to make, and thus, tend to be pricier. In return for the premium paid, you get a suit that not only molds to you, but will last the longest.

At Raj Mirpuri, we only offer a full canvass jacket, whether you are purchasing suit, dinner jacket or a blazer. 
Full Canvas Jacket available at Raj Mirpuri Bespoke Tailors



It Does Not Exist Yet

The word "bespoke", comes from the term "to be spoken for". Traditionally, an individual would first reserve a unique cloth that would used exclusively for the creation of their bespoke suit or coat. Then a pattern would be drawn out onto the cloth based on the individual's measurements and fit. It is from this cloth that the suit would be cut and crafted according to the individual's measurements.

The difference between this process and Half-Tailored, Made to Measure, or Personally Tailored suits is that they are in existence prior to the customer placing an order. The pattern is preset and slightly adjusted according to measurements to accommodate  their shape. 

Use of Only the Finest Cloths

The Savile Row Bespoke Association requires that a customer be offered a selection of at least 2,000 fabrics to qualify the experience as a "bespoke" one. Whilst we do meet that requirement, we focus on providing quality fabrics from mils such as Dormeuil, Holland & Sherry and Loro Piana. In our view there is no point investing in the interior without having an exterior to match. 

The Process

Every Raj Mirpuri suit starts life as a two-dimensional length of superfine suiting cloth, transformed over time to fit the customer precisely to his requirements, fulfilling entirely an individual’s vision for their own clothes. Every suit is unique, made to the customer’s exact measurements (typically around thirty measures will be taken across the customer’s body), drafted into an individual paper pattern from which his chosen or ‘bespoken’ cloth is cut.

The suit will then be handmade, with the cloth shrunken, stretched, pressed, stitched and structured into a perfectly form-fitting three-dimensional garment. Apprentice tailors can train for up to six years to be considered a specialist in but one area of bespoke tailoring, whether this is cutting a customer’s pattern or trouser making. The skillsets of several different specialist craftsmen combine into every suit and an average of fifty man-hours and some three months from commission to finished garment characterise the  bespoke process – a process that has changed little since the seventeenth century.

The Experience

For us, this is a key factor. Investing in a bespoke suit is exactly that; an investment. It takes time, commitment and an understanding of the entire process in order to reap the reward. 

We understand that and cultivate that interest in men's tailoring to educate and inform each and every one of our clients of the difference that they are investing in.