Spring Summer 2015 - What you need to know
1. One Button Jackets
Traditionally, one-button suits were associated with high fashion and seen as a beautiful, as their cut is derived from the one button dinner jacket.
It is because of this inherent formality, that wearing a one button suit (which by definition is less formal than a dinner jacket) is slightly rebellious. Made famous by the likes of Miles Davis, the one-button suit is what you wear when your pinstripes are far too droll and a tuxedo just won’t do. In fact, the one-button suit is such a unique blend of fashion and attitude that you may need to check your confidence level at the door before pulling it out.
2. Wider Lapels
This is a continuing trend from last season. Rather than being a one-hit wonder, the wider peak and notch lapel seem to be here to stay as designers add a sense of formality to their summer clothing. Peak lapels are much more prominent than last season on suits and on blazers and while we do welcome the trend, one should not overstep the boundary for fear of wearing something that would be more appropriate in the 1920s.
Traditionally, lapels on Bespoke jackets are cut according to the size of one’s chest so that they are proportional. Whilst we always recommend adhering to tradition for work suits, there is a lot more room for creativity when creating sports jackets, blazers (except for the timeless blue blazer) and coats.
With the long summer days, bright reds, greens and even pinks make it into the menswear collections. The challenge is to successfully piece together an combination of the colors that does not blind everybody else and can be worn both in a formal and casual setting.
When creating an outfit, we always recommend to pick one item of clothing that is bright, whether that be the trousers, the jacket or the shirt and then to match it accordingly with something that that is a little more “subtle”. Red trousers with a beige blazer or a fantastic orange blazer with dark blue trousers will definitely get a lot of use during the season.
Stripes are a perennial spring/summer trend and while checked tailoring continues to make its presence felt, this season the pattern take a back seat to stripes.
Guaranteed to give your tailoring collection a summer-ready lift, a striped blazer will serve you well for a slew of different occasions, from formal garden parties to sun holidays abroad.
An easy way to inject some summer into your wardrobe is with a striped shirt. Matched with a grey or blue suit, a shirt with a brighter colored stripe will add color while being very work friendly.
It is worth remembering that different stripes will have different effects on your overall size and shape. Horizontal stripes tend to make you look wider by breaking up the vertical silhouette, while vertical stripes draw the eye down quickly, giving the illusion of length/height. With this in mind, if you’re short and squat, you’re better off avoiding the former, while lankier gentlemen would do well to stay away from the latter.