Autumn/Winter 2014: What you need to know – Raj Mirpuri Bespoke Clothiers
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Key Themes for Autumn/Winter 2014

 

1. English Flannel 

Flannel is making a welcome comeback this season. Lighter and thinner than previous generations, you can wear it a lot of different ways, including in double-breasted suits. The traditional flannel suit is a single breasted, 2 button, light grey suit, but there is an abundance of choices this season ranging from medium blue check jacketing to burgundy. 

Gray flannel pants are a skeleton key to the fall wardrobe, and the lighter the shade of gray, the more versatile they are. Lighter grays can easily make the transition from work to weekends while darker shades are mostly for the office.

2. Wider Lapels

For the last few seasons, designers have favored narrow, skinny lapels. For AW2014, the pendulum has swung the other way towards a wider peak and notch lapel. The additional width makes for a bolder, more formal and definitely more prominent entrance. The greater use of peak lapels on jackets and coats adds to the sense of a more formal look for the season.

Traditionally, lapels on Bespoke jackets are cut according to the size of one’s chest so that they are proportional. Whilst we always recommend adhering to tradition for work suits, there is a lot more room for creativity when creating sports jackets, blazers (except for the timeless blue blazer) and coats.

3. Checks Checks & Checks

Checks remain popular this season, especially on separates such as jackets and trousers. Not as brazen and bold as previous years, the patterns used are more complementary as opposed to contrasting.

Fabrics with checks have always been the third choice when creating a wardrobe; first you would created a solid suit (charcoal grey or midnight blue), then a stripe (a grey or navy pinstripe), possibly another solid and only then would you consider adding a checked fabric to your repertoire. Whilst this still holds true for suits, the greater availability of luxury fabrics with checked designs, along with their greater acceptability, means that a checked blazer is now a very viable alternative.

4. Slim Trousers

When purchasing or even looking for a suit, the greatest attention has always been paid to the fit and feel of the jacket. Whilst this is understandable, it has often resulted in men pairing perfectly fitting jackets with a pair of trousers that are either skin tight, too baggy and definitely not the right length.

Finally, it appears that a middle path has been reached this season with trousers that are tapered but not body hugging. However, the current trend towards cropped trousers, where there is no break or there is even a little ankle showing is unacceptable in a formal or even casual scenario.

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